Costume suggestions for gentlemen attending the Centennial Dance Weekend

(Please be advised that the information below is included for those who particularly wish to dress in the style of the era. In the absence of historical costume, modern formalwear (white or black tie) or a dark suit may be worn for the ball and a white long-sleeved shirt and light-colored trousers may be worn for Sunday. Gloves for dancing are still advised. Vintage costume is NOT required.)

For the ball: From Harper's Bazaar, March 31, 1900: In evening clothes little change is to be noted. The coat is shaped to the waist, and the tails, which are cut at an angle, end two inches above the back of the knee. The trousers are full and wide, and have a stripe down the side or not, as preferred. The waistcoat is single-breasted. The evening coat is faced with silk only to the lapels, and has a cloth collar. Evening dress is worn on all formal occasions after seven o'clock. The dinner jacket-or "tuxedo," as it is foolishly called-is made of vicuna or dress cloth, and is for informal evening occasions. It is used much in summer, even at hotel hops and ordinary evening entertainments in the country, and at all but the most fashionable watering-places. Shirts for evening wear are perfectly plain, white-bosomed, two shirt buttons, collars attached or unattached, cuffs attached. For evening the straight standing three-inch collar is the most fashionable. Shirt buttons should be of white enamel, gold, or pearl. The tie is the straight self-tied linen bow, square ends, for evening dress, and the black silk bow, self-tied, with square ends, for dinner coat. Top-hats are rather straight up and down, with slightly curling brims. Silk or top hats worn with evening coats and Derby or black alpine felt with dinner or Tuxedo jacket. There is a reaction against the opera or crush hat. There is a tendency to wear colored hose with evening dress. The colors must be subdued, however, and the material must be silk. If lisle-thread hose are used, they must be black. Folkwear's pattern #222 Vintage Vests, view B, is an appropriate vest pattern for evening wear.

Text and pictures above were provided by Catherine Bishop of Vintage Victorian.
More detailed information about men's costume of this period is available there.


Hints to Gentlemen
From Edward Lawson's Guide to Dancing, London, early 1900's:

"A well-fitting dress suit that has an air of being on good terms with its wearer, low-heeled patent leather or soft kid shoes, and a plain white tie are the principal features of the toilet. The necktie must be white, the gloves may be worn in any of the lighter shades, but pearl grey with broad white or narrow black stitchings at their backs are in far better taste than any of the fancy shades. White waistcoats are permissible, but they must be plain and unobtrusive. The size of the wearer should also be taken into consideration. A black waistcoat not too low-cut would be far preferable for a stout gentleman. The tendency of black to diminish the size should be fully appreciated."

"The rules for gentlemen's evening dress are few and simple. In contemplation of past impressions, the first rule I would suggest is that they never at any time should try to make themselves look pretty. Beauty unadorned is pleasing and fascinating, but the aim to look pretty is distinctly a feminine privilege: men should avoid anything of the sort."

"A small boutonniere or a single flower looks well, and has a smartening effect upon its sombre background. Diamond cuff buttons and studs are permissible, so also is a watch chain; but in accordance with the first rule, the less conspicuous ornaments of plain dull gold and quite small evidence better taste and less effort on the part of the wearer. Tiny pearls are unobtrusive, and, like diamonds, are permissible."

For Sunday Afternoon:

Gentlemen's daywear of this era would consist of either a light-colored suit in linen or cotton or light-colored trousers with a lightweight jacket and vest. Bow ties or wide long ties (in colors and patterns) are both appropriate. Folkwear's pattern #222 Vintage Vests contains appropriate vest and bowtie patterns. A more formal alternative would be a morning suit (cutaway or swallow-tailed coat) in black or grey; black or white vest; black, grey, or grey-striped trousers, with top hat, spats, and cane.
(Text courtesy of the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers Newport Costume Resource).

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